This year a blend of 75% cabernet, 16% merlot, 5% malbec, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot with the grapes being grown according to Bio-Dynamic principles. In order to get into the spirit of things I swirled the wine anti-clockwise while suspending a crystal over the top before tasting. Actually, I think there really is something in this Bio-Dynamic wines lark, and to paraphrase the great Reeves & Mortimer – 'I don't know how it works…but it does!'. Aromas of violet, sweet cherry, berry, bayleaf, a little beef stock and most attractive lead pencil oak with hints of asprin that some young screw-capped wines show. On the palate full bodied but very reserved and controlled with cherry, berry, clove, bayleaf and cedar flavours. Masses of mouthcoating firm tannins and noticeable cheek puckering acidity lay the foundations for decades of development. There is little pleasure to be found in this wine at present so don't even think about thinking about opening one for at least ten years. It's great but wait. Drink: 2018 - 2030+.

This is a boomer. It is the best since 2001. It is strong, pure, muscular, wrapped in big arms of tannin and statuesque in its bright, clean, dark fruit profile. There's a sense of the tall, dark and handsome about this. It presents as a straight, perfumed, controlled burst of plums, blackcurrant, cedar, cigarbox, musk, chocolate and cloves, the merest tip of eucalypt giving it lift and life. This is a 20-year, long-haul wine. Don't touch it for a long time. Blend this year is cabernet sauvignon 75%, merlot 16%, malbec 5%, cabernet franc 3% and petit verdot 1%. Drink: 2018-2027+.