In charge of his family’s domaine since 1980, Foillard is a follower of the teachings of the great Jules Chauvet, the father of France’s natural wine movement. He tends his ancient vines organically, makes and ages his wines traditionally and doesn’t chaptalize, filter or add sulfur to them.

The results are the most transparent renderings of Morgon imaginable, creating a very clear hierarchy within Jean’s array. The increasing depth, intensity and nuance as one progresses through Foillard’s range is as strikingly apparent as the terroir and vintage expression— the qualities for which he is so revered—of each wine.

From the textbook perfume and silky texture of the Classique, through the great complexity and structure of Côte du Py and ending with the stunning elegance and equilibrium of Cuvée 3.14, the differences are startlingly clear.