The 2006 Barolo Lazzarito has begun to show the pedigree of this great Serralunga site now that Vietti has backed off the French oak, and the 2006 is nothing short of superb. A melange of dark, mineral-infused fruit flows from the glass as the large-scaled Lazzarito gradually shows off its class. Licorice, tar, smoke and earthiness add layers of complexity and nuance. The Lazzarito is still the Barolo that spends the longest number of months in French oak following the malolactic fermentation, but that period is down to several months from a full year the wine spent in small barrels up until 2001 or so. One day the Lazzarito may challenge the Rocche as Vietti's signature Barolo, and that day may be closer than most people realize. This huge, imposing Barolo will require patience, but it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. I sampled a mind-boggling array of outstanding – and often profound – wines in my marathon tasting session with proprietor and winemaker Luca Currado. The 2006 Barolos are nothing short of spectacular and the 2007s may be even better! Readers can check out notes on those wines in my recent feature on the estate posted on www.erobertparker.com. I should note that Vietti plans to release a 2006 Barolo Riserva Villero, but that wine is years from seeing the light of day. The Barolos are vinified in stainless steel, then racked into French oak for the malolactic fermentation, where the wines remain for a few months. The majority of aging takes place in large, neutral casks. Over the last few years, the use of French oak has become more measured and the Barolos are now among the elite wines of the region in virtually every vintage. In short, there seems to be no end to this estate's ambition. Frankly, I wish there were more wineries setting their sights on this level of quality.

Good full red. Cherry, marzipan, chestnut and nutty oak on the nose. At once sweet and powerful, with excellent energy and power to the mineral and menthol flavors. Less refined than the Brunate but also much less open to inspection today. The long, mounting finish conveys a strong impression of energy.